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Author Topic: Recommended Engine Oil  (Read 6251 times)

randombikerdude

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Recommended Engine Oil
« on: May 12, 2011, 05:11:25 AM »
I was just about to go for a ride tonight, checked my oil and noticed it's really low. What oil should I get to fill it up? I'm in Arizona where it's gonna be extremely hot very soon. Thanks.

Ice

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2011, 05:26:19 AM »
 My book says 15W50 but I can't get that so I run 10W40 in the winter and 20W50 in the summer ( Pacific N.W. )

I think the two most important things are:
 (1) make sure the oil has the zinc and phosphorus anti wear package in it like motorcycle specific and some diesel oils. Almost all regular automotive oil have had it removed per EPA mandate.

 (2) stick with one brand and don't switch around a lot because the detergent packages of one brand may not play well with another.

Bob is the oil guy is a very informative oils and lubes website, here's a link;

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

Hope this helps.



I can break it better,,,,at night, in the rain, on the trail,, 20 miles from nowhere.

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"TIMEX", the '06 Iron Barrel Military that takes me everywhere I want to go... and some places I shouldn't.

Superchuck

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2011, 01:46:03 PM »
A lot of people here use ROTELLA-T 15w40.  It's actually diesel truck oil so i guess it works with primitive engines like ours and has those 'anti-wear additives' or ZDDP i think it's called.  It's also really cheap which is a plus- got the big jug from an auto parts store for like fifteen bucks, and it's good for about two oil changes.

I don't know about tailoring oil weight to regional temperature but I'm in Baltimore/DC and the summers get pretty hot... not Arizona hot though.  I'll probably just run this same oil year round, since I don't think it makes a huge difference (others may disagree)

Some people use motorcycle specific oil, but with our primitive machines it really seems like a waste of money. 

If you search on these forums for OIL you'll get more literature than you can deal with, but even just one of those threads will be very useful

Frequency of oil changes is more important than which oil you use it seems, and if you're doing your first oil change, make sure to hold onto that oil filter cap cause the spring will shoot away and get lost... just search for 'first oil change' and you'll get an earful.

chuck

Bill Harris

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2011, 03:47:52 AM »
danimaltime,

I know the Owner's Manual says to check the oil when the engine is cold.  I say check your oil level after a ride and the engine is hot.  The oil will often seep from the oil tank to the crank case in a nonunit Royal Enfield after it's been setting for a while.  After you shut the engine off wait a couple or three minutes, not much more than maybe five minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil tank and then check the oil.  Put the dip stick in but don't screw it in.  The oil should be over 3/4 the way up between the high and low marks on the dip stick, but not over the high mark and not below 1/2 .  Do not check the oil level if the bike has been setting for a time.  The dip stick may show a low reading and you may think you need to add oil but you don't.  

Cheers,
Bill
« Last Edit: May 13, 2011, 02:39:00 PM by Bill Harris »

Ice

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2011, 03:59:48 AM »
 Superchuck is on the money especially the bit about frequency of oil change.

 I have seen with my own eyes Diesel engines go over a million miles before overhaul for that reason.

 There are two Harley Davidson's in the factory museum with over 400,000 documented miles on them.

 One of my local auto store sells a Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil motorcycle oils for the same prices as the car oils respectively.

 10w40 is not for everyone in the winter.
I use it because the wind chill of 55mph on a 28F day or a rainy 36F morning is something like a bazillion below zero.





 

I can break it better,,,,at night, in the rain, on the trail,, 20 miles from nowhere.

REA #136

"TIMEX", the '06 Iron Barrel Military that takes me everywhere I want to go... and some places I shouldn't.

REpozer

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2011, 04:35:25 AM »


 One of my local auto store sells a Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil motorcycle oils for the same prices as the car oils respectively.
That's a great deal!

 Motorcycle oils are more then double the cost of car oils. I will be using 15w-40 and a spurt of Lucas oil additive till something better makes sense for me.

Oh I do ride in cool temps.
2008 AVL Classic Bullet in British Racing Green
REA # 84 ( the first time)

GSS

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2011, 02:40:38 AM »
I was just about to go for a ride tonight, checked my oil and noticed it's really low. What oil should I get to fill it up? I'm in Arizona where it's gonna be extremely hot very soon. Thanks.
Amsoil synthetic 20W-50 is a pretty good option at high temps.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx
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R.D.

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2011, 07:04:29 PM »
From an oil guy out here, ( Shell / Total fina elf )

I own an India spec AVL500, almost the same architecture and innards as u.s and europe spec engines except for carburation setup for various destinations.

Oil : Primarily is meant to lubricate and minimize friction among moving parts in an engine, apart from cooling & acting as a heat transfer agent, plus provide added protection through an additive package ( Mainly - Detergents- to clean carbon and soot deposits ,Dispersants- to keep the cleared muck in suspension till the next oil drain, Anti wear agents like Zinc Di Thio Phosphate popularly known as ZDTP, Viscosity modifiers- to modify viscometrics of an oil across varying operational temperature ranges, Pour point depressant : to enhance the flow properties of an oil at minus temperatures etc....etc. )
These are the standard additive package in any brand of oil, regardless of viscometrics- 0w30 , 5w30,15w30 or 40, 20w50 etc

Diesel grade oil characteristics are API classified as C ( COMPRESSION ) and range from CC,CD,CE,CF,CG,CH,CI,CJ......the higher you go the better detergent, dispersant, antiwear characteristics, it possesses. again regardless of viscometrics ( 5w40 / 20w50 etc )

Gasoline/Petrol grade oil characteristics are API classified as S ( SPARK ) and again range feom SC,SF,SG,SH,SJ,SK.....regardless of viscometric.

So over all i would say a CF/SG spec 20w50 of any make would give sustained lubricating and cleaning properties over ambient  temperatures ranging from +49 C  to -5 C
Google any brand of oil available in your area, and check for the Technical Data Sheet for an available viscometric, eg. ( 5w30,0w30,15w40,20w50 .....)
Check for Flash point - Pour point temperature - TBN number ( its higher in diesel specs because it indicates acid neutralizing properties- a safe figure for our engines should be 10.5 )

Drain your engine oil & replace the oil filter at 2000 miles max, religiously and am sure there wont be any oil related issues with your steed.

Cheers.
R.D.   
 
 

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olhogrider

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2011, 07:19:13 PM »
Ever seen a can of Kedall oil? It shows a hand with two fingers up, signifying you could go 2000 miles instead of the standard 1000 miles between changes. That was in 1928. These days auto makers recommend 6000 miles or more between changes. Upside of frequent changes? Cheap insurance. Downside? Cost? Dumping oil? Hardly. I use less that 2 quarts and that gets recycled.

Ice

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2011, 07:26:49 PM »
Ever seen a can of Kedall oil? It shows a hand with two fingers up, signifying you could go 2000 miles instead of the standard 1000 miles between changes. That was in 1928.

WoW !!

 Thanks Br. O.H.R. for that bit of history.
I can break it better,,,,at night, in the rain, on the trail,, 20 miles from nowhere.

REA #136

"TIMEX", the '06 Iron Barrel Military that takes me everywhere I want to go... and some places I shouldn't.

Arizoni

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2011, 12:50:03 AM »
R.D.

You said in part, "... TBN number ( its higher in diesel specs because it indicates acid neutralizing properties- a safe figure for our engines should be 10.5 )
Among the things you mention the 20-50w Valvoline Motorcycle oil I just bought  has a data sheet that says its Total Base Number (TBN?) is 8.
Exactly what does this TBN represent and should I be concerned with using this oil in my new Enfield UCE engine?
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary

R.D.

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Re: Recommended Engine Oil
« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2011, 05:58:41 PM »
Bro Ari..,

TBN number is more important for diesel fueled engines because of sulphur content in diesel,  which upon combustion creates sulphuric acid.
In our case - Gasoline engines - TBN number isn't relevant.
The reason why i mentioned a safe 10.5 TBN was,   just in case you have to use a diesel grade oil in your UCE
 No harm at all, even if its 8. 

In fact, in India various branded lubricants are marketed as 'bike specific' oils but i don't see much of a difference, except for higher pricing of those products.

Cheers,

R.D.

 
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