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Author Topic: Stupid chain question  (Read 213 times)

Lane

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Stupid chain question
« on: September 30, 2013, 05:48:44 PM »
If I go into a Honda, Yamaha, or whoever dealer, what do I ask for to get a chain for my bullet?  I'm talking about the chain to the rear wheel (drive?).

Is it a generic type chain and I've got to know the length?  Is there a recommended type that may be better than the stock chain or is it good enough?  I have the classic model with the AVL.

Looks like that's more than just one question, huh?    ;D

Arizoni

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Re: Stupid chain question
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2013, 10:44:34 PM »
I'm not sure how many links are in your chain but the chain size is a #530.

The first number is the pitch or distance from roller to roller given in eights of an inch so the 5 represents 5/8 inches.
The second number is the width of the rollers measured in eights of an inch so the 3 indicates the rollers are 3/8 inches long.

To figure out the number of links in your chain use the master link (with the removable side link and split locking retainer) as number 1 and start counting until you get to the master link again.

There are a lot of good aftermarket chains available and IMO a standard chain will work just as good as one of the expensive O-ring or X-ring chains on a Royal Enfield. :)
Jim
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REpozer

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Re: Stupid chain question
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2013, 08:42:26 AM »
I purchase a DID 530 -100 roller chain.
 Metal was thinker then the Indian made "Diamond" brand.

I needed 95 links, but went with 96 links.

 Used a pneumatic powered (air tool) cutting wheel ( whiz wheel) to grind a chain pin down, then a hammer and punch to drive the pin out for 96 links left.
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D the D

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Re: Stupid chain question
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2013, 08:54:49 AM »
I purchase a DID 530 -100 roller chain.
 Metal was thinker then the Indian made "Diamond" brand.

I needed 95 links, but went with 96 links.

 Used a pneumatic powered (air tool) cutting wheel ( whiz wheel) to grind a chain pin down, then a hammer and punch to drive the pin out for 96 links left.

+1  Get a chain next size longer than you need and use a Dremel tool or die grinder to grind the head off the pin you need to cut the chain at then punch it through.  Make sure you have a master link with your chain!
Any name brand chain is better than the OEM.  You don't need an "O-ring" or "X-ring" chain and may find some are too wide and hit the back of the inner primary at the transmission sprocket. Pick a Japanese brand and you're guaranteed a pretty good one.
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High On Octane

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Re: Stupid chain question
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2013, 06:36:34 AM »
I purchase a DID 530 -100 roller chain.
 Metal was thinker then the Indian made "Diamond" brand.

I needed 95 links, but went with 96 links.

 Used a pneumatic powered (air tool) cutting wheel ( whiz wheel) to grind a chain pin down, then a hammer and punch to drive the pin out for 96 links left.

+1

I picked up a new Tsubaki chain locally this spring for $60.  I've put over 1500 miles on it and still hasn't needed an adjustment.

Scottie


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