When the key is first turned on, the fuel pump should run for just a few seconds until it has built up pressure. On my 2011 G5, it then stops until the engine crankshaft rotates a bit and then it temporarily runs for another second or so.If the engine kill switch is in the run position, the neutral light is on, the clutch lever is pulled in and the key is turned on the engine should crank and start.If nothing is happening my first guess after the fuses would be the starter solenoid. Is it clicking when the start button is pushed? Even if it does click it might be worthwhile to use a jumper wire to go directly from the + side of the battery directly to the starter motor for just an instant. That would confirm that the starter motor will operate (or not).I'm not sure where they mounted them but there are three (on my G5) little square relays somewhere. Mine are in the left hot dog cover but the C5 doesn't have these chrome covers.Anyway, these are the same relays that are used on many cars to operate power windows, seat heaters and an assortment of other devices. It is possible that one of these has quit working.Another possibility is even with the kick stand up, the safety switch on it is telling the ECU the sidestand is down. The motorcycle won't start or run if the ECU thinks this is happening.The quick way around this side stand switch is to simply disconnect it. The wiring connector is at the left rear side of the engine where a branch of harness is running down the frame seat down tube.Let us know what you find.
has anyone noticed substantial wear on the kickstand or on the mount? The allen bolt is tightened all the way and so is the lock nut, but it feels pretty loose, wiggly. It doesn't feel like any other bike I've encountered, doesn't feel trustworthy. Is there a high quality non OEM replacement I could try?
I don't believe anyone has tried an aftermarket switch. The general consensus is to disconnect and remove it. FWIW I've been on this forum about 18 months or so and I seriously cannot remember or count the number of times people have come on here reporting "running issues" only for it to come back to be the side stand switch causing the trouble. If you're worried about forgetting and leaving the side stand down..... Most people only do that once. Whether they go down or not is a different story, but it usually only happens once.Scottie J
I'm not worried about the switch anymore as much as the kickstand itself not being strong enough to properly hold the bike. Its grinding down the mount on the bike and rounding off the plane of the mount so that it fits very loosely and doesn't give you a sense of security.
That's the first I've heard of that problem. That may be a manufacturing defect. Can you attach a pic?Scottie J
Hello all, this is my first post after lurking a while. I removed the right engine cover and replaced the gasket....Today I reinstalled everything except the exhaust and I tried starting it up to let it idle a few seconds. I guess I was doing this to circulate the oil and see if 2.2L was enough to read correct in the oil window.
Thanks for all the replies!When I first worked on the bike the oil level was VERY low and very black. It was supposed to be within it's change schedule. The magnet on the drain bolt had a good bit of fuzz on it, no chunks no hunks, just fine sludgey goo of magnetic particles. None of this was very good, in my opinion, but I didn't know what to make of it yet. I didn't have a detailed maintenance record or anything like that.Ordered a complete gasket set and opened up the right side cover because there were bits of gasket coming out and oil leaking over the swingarm, chain, inside the rear fender, all over back wheel. this is characteristic of oil coming out the airbox but I didn't check it then. The gasket bits were no big deal, just extraneous bits around the drive sprocket cover if you know what I mean....So I did overfill at first, it was hard to gauge, and info online stated anywhere from just under 2L to 2.3L...A few days later I checked the oil while hot on the centerstand, and it wasn't showing up in the window. So I added a bit more and the next day it pushed it out the breather again and the level was back juuuust under the window. I left it as is, and there was very little oil coming out, but after a week I checked the bike (it's my friend's bike that I'm trying to maintain for him) and the oil level was too low for my comfort and looking pretty black, so I added some more and it spit it out.I have since learned about the oil/air labyrinth and the gasket in the breather chamber, and I'm very eager to get it opened up to see what's going on in there.I will check for the oil pump o-ring when I'm in there as well. I have some oil change kits on order and I'll sort it out when they come in.The air filter looked fine, but I will check it again. It has a plastic cover over it that the dealer added at some point after purchase, it seems that it's trying to direct air from the little vent in the back of the airbox directly to the filter, but it also keeps the oil off. I suppose a compression test is in the cards.
I didn't recall him saying he removed the oil pump and if he didn't, he wouldn't see the O-ring that's under it.
Ah! That one.